guyatsea

The moon was almost full last night, and the tide was strong today, helping me along the Skye coast up from Glenbrittle.

We met a cool family at Glenbrittle  – Sean, Ingrid and Kate – who are paddling round Skye and suggested camping on this island.  Thanks – it’s a lovely spot.

After two amazing weeks, Shana has gone back today – it’s not easy to return to solitude after enjoying her company so much.

The settled weather is continuing, so I should be able to make some more progress around Skye over the next few days.

On Sunday, I crossed from Arisaig to Loch Brittle on Skye – it was a long crossing, but with incredible views of Eigg, Rum and Canna on my left and Skye and Soay on my right.

I’ve been taking a couple of days off here with Shana to enjoy beautiful Skye – we’ve visited the nearby Viking canal and the fairy pools.

Going to continue north tomorrow while this good weather lasts.

Yesterday, I left Aros castle on the Sound of Mull, paddling past lots of yachts before stopping at Tobermory for a quick lunch then on round Ardnamurchan Point.  It was good to see the Small Isles and Skye come into view.  I camped shortly afterwards at a beautiful spot in Sanna Bay.

Today, I had a short paddle up from Sanna Bay to Arisaig, where we’re now sat in the pub.  A bat is flying around in here.

On leaving Oban, I paddled west towards Mull to try to stay south of the ferries.  The visibility was so poor that I couldn’t see the island until I was less than 200m away. However it had all cleared by the time I entered the Sound of Mull.

I stopped to camp on a nice beach by Aros castle.

(sorry for the lack of updates – it had been hard to find a decent signal recently)

After Machrihanish Beach, I paddled up to Port Bàn in the sunshine – a lovely campsite right on the beach with a warm welcome and excellent hot showers.

The next day was cooler and overcast and I continued north with help from the tide, dodging numerous islands and rain showers.  I camped on the shore of Loch Beag, with a view of  Craignish castle and just within earshot of the Corryvrekan.

Yesterday, the calm weather continued and I paddled through the sound on Luing, stopping to camp at Gallanach in the sound of Kerrera, just south of Oban.  The campsite here is right on the water and has stunning views.

I’m pretty tired, so I’m resting today.  The forecast still looks excellent.

Another day of flat calm water yesterday and I paddled round the Mull of Kintyre itself.  The tides were complicated and my speed varied wildly between 1 and 8 knots.

The tides had dictated a late start, so there wasn’t time to get much further and I stopped to camp in the dunes at Machrihanish Bay

My girlfriend has come to visit and we spent a lovely couple of days on the beach at Ballantrae – swimming in the sea and warming up and cooking by a fire made from the plentiful dry driftwood.

Yesterday, I crossed from Ballantrae to the Mull of Kintyre.  It was a bit hazy so I was out of sight of land for most of the way (although I could just make out the top of Ailsa Craig as I passed within about 8 miles of it).

Conditions were so calm that at one point, the only ripples I could see on the water were from where insects were landing.

Eventually, Sanda Island came into view and I landed on the beach near Southend.  A long crossing, but it had taken Shana almost as long to drive the long way round.

I waited until high water yesterday before going round the Mull of Galloway – the ‘washing machine’ about which I had been warned, was off.

The conditions were lovely and calm and the caves in the cliffs amplified the calls of the seabirds within.  Clouds of guillemots and razorbills flew past.

After passing more great coastline, I stopped at Portpatrick to stock up on food again.  A few miles after that, I landed at the pretty beach at Knock Bay.  This morning, there was very clean surf at the beach and I surfed a couple of waves before setting off.

The water was very clear and I could see lots of jellyfish (and a few fish) – good to be paddling close to the shore after so many long crossings recently.

After dodging the Stranraer ferries, I landed at Ballantrae – taking a day off tomorrow.

I waited until high water yesterday before going round the Mull of Galloway – the ‘washing machine’ about which I had been warned, was off.

The conditions were lovely and calm and the caves in the cliffs amplified the calls of the seabirds within.  Clouds of guillemots and razorbills flew past.

After passing more great coastline, I stopped at Portpatrick to stock up on food again.  A few miles after that, I landed at the pretty beach at Knock Bay.  This morning, there was very clean surf at the beach and I surfed a couple of waves before setting off.

The water was very clear and I could see lots of jellyfish (and a few fish) – good to be paddling close to the shore after so many long crossings recently.

After dodging the Stranraer ferries, I landed at Ballantrae – taking a day off tomorrow.

Two long crossings today – 10 miles to Burrow Head, then 20 more to the Mull of Galloway.  I had to paddle against the tide for the first couple of hours so I could make full use of the ebb later.

By the time I arrived at Burrow Head, the tide race was running nicely and I was making good progress, but later on a headwind arrived and slowed me down.

Huge gannets were swooping low at me as I passed Big Scare rock, and I had a couple of porpoises for company.  Unfortunately, the tide turned against me just 4 miles short off the Mull of Galloway, but I made it to East Tarbet … eventually.

I’m a bit apprehensive about going round the headland tomorrow as I’ve been told that it is like a washing machine!