Redpoint

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I left Staffin Island yesterday and made a little detour to go and have a look at the waterfall by Kilt Rock – an impressive sight.

From there, I crossed directly to Redpoint.  There were some patches of mist for the first few miles, but that soon cleared and I was able to aim for the red sand at Redpoint.

Once I arrived here, I felt pretty exhausted, so I camped.  Today, I’m heading into Gairloch to stock up on food before continuing north.

Staffin Island

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Yesterday, I left Ardmore bay and continued up to Waternish point, from where I crossed due east, dodging the Uig ferries, before heading north to Rubha Hunish, then down to camp on Staffin Island.

It was so calm that I could see the wakes of jellyfish swimming during the crossing, and I could brush my fingers on the rock columns as the tide carried me past Skye’s most northerly point.

Ardmore Point

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Macleod's Maidens

I continued round Skye yesterday in calm but showery weather.  Very dramatic coastline with towering cliffs, huge birds of prey, and many waterfalls, caves, stacks and natural arches.

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It was very calm as I passed Neist Point at low tide and I continued
to Ardmore Bay.  After seeing that the beach was full of long-horned highland cattle, I decided to go back to camp on a patch of grass near Ardmore Point.

Harlosh Island

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The moon was almost full last night, and the tide was strong today, helping me along the Skye coast up from Glenbrittle.

We met a cool family at Glenbrittle  – Sean, Ingrid and Kate – who are paddling round Skye and suggested camping on this island.  Thanks – it’s a lovely spot.

After two amazing weeks, Shana has gone back today – it’s not easy to return to solitude after enjoying her company so much.

The settled weather is continuing, so I should be able to make some more progress around Skye over the next few days.

Glen Brittle, Skye

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Arriving at Skye

On Sunday, I crossed from Arisaig to Loch Brittle on Skye – it was a long crossing, but with incredible views of Eigg, Rum and Canna on my left and Skye and Soay on my right.

I’ve been taking a couple of days off here with Shana to enjoy beautiful Skye – we’ve visited the nearby Viking canal and the fairy pools.

Going to continue north tomorrow while this good weather lasts.

Arisaig

In the Sound of Mull - I'm the small dot near the centre of the frame.  (photo by Shana).
In the Sound of Mull – I’m the small dot near the centre of the frame. (photo by Shana).
Leaving Tobermory
Leaving Tobermory  (photo by Shana)

 

Yesterday, I left Aros castle on the Sound of Mull, paddling past lots of yachts before stopping at Tobermory for a quick lunch then on round Ardnamurchan Point.  It was good to see the Small Isles and Skye come into view.  I camped shortly afterwards at a beautiful spot in Sanna Bay.

 

Today, I had a short paddle up from Sanna Bay to Arisaig, where we’re now sat in the pub.  A bat is flying around in here.

 

 

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Clear water at Sanna Bay
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Flat calm approaching Arisaig

 

Mull

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On leaving Oban, I paddled west towards Mull to try to stay south of the ferries.  The visibility was so poor that I couldn’t see the island until I was less than 200m away. However it had all cleared by the time I entered the Sound of Mull.

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I stopped to camp on a nice beach by Aros castle.

Oban

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Arriving at the Mull of Kintyre (photo by Shana)

(sorry for the lack of updates – it had been hard to find a decent signal recently)

After Machrihanish Beach, I paddled up to Port Bàn in the sunshine – a lovely campsite right on the beach with a warm welcome and excellent hot showers.

The next day was cooler and overcast and I continued north with help from the tide, dodging numerous islands and rain showers.  I camped on the shore of Loch Beag, with a view of  Craignish castle and just within earshot of the Corryvrekan.

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Yesterday, the calm weather continued and I paddled through the sound on Luing, stopping to camp at Gallanach in the sound of Kerrera, just south of Oban.  The campsite here is right on the water and has stunning views.

I’m pretty tired, so I’m resting today.  The forecast still looks excellent.

Machrihanish Beach

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Another day of flat calm water yesterday and I paddled round the Mull of Kintyre itself.  The tides were complicated and my speed varied wildly between 1 and 8 knots.

The tides had dictated a late start, so there wasn’t time to get much further and I stopped to camp in the dunes at Machrihanish Bay